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Q: What is core aeration?
A: In simplest terms, it is the process of making finger sized holes
in your lawn and depositing the removed material on the surface to
break down. This allows fertilizer, water and oxygen to get to the
roots where healthy grass originates.
Q: Is core aerating effective in improving
all species of turf grass?
A: Yes, both cool season (i.e. Kentucky bluegrass) and warm season
grasses (i.e. Bermuda grass) can be greatly improved.
Q: How do I know if a yard needs aeration?
A: Known clay soils, heavy traffic, more than 1/2" of thatch,
standing water after irrigation or rain, or lawns that brown easily
in heat are all excellent candidates. In reality, any yard, healthy
or not, can benefit from annual aeration.
Q: Will spiking do the same thing?
A: No. While spiking will put holes in the turf, it actually
compacts the soil rather than removing the core. While there are
often short-term benefits, in the long term this is
counterproductive.
Q: When should aeration be scheduled?
A: For cool season grasses such as bluegrass, bentgrass, rye grass
and fine leaf and tall fescue, spring (March-May) and fall
(August-November) are best. For warm season grasses such as Bermuda,
buffalo, St. Augustine, late spring and summer after
spring green up (May-July) is preferred.
Q: How often should a lawn be aerated?
A: In areas where the soil has a high clay content, compaction and
thatch buildup is more prevalent and aeration should be done twice a
year. In areas of more sandy or loamy soils, annual aeration will
result in continued healthy lawns and improved irrigation and
fertilizing efficiency.
Q: When will positive results be seen in the
lawn?
A: Depending on the turf conditions, visual results may or may not
be immediate from a single aeration. Subterranean root growth and
overall health and stress tolerance will however begin to improve
almost at once. Even in the toughest conditions aeration in
combination with an appropriate fertilizing, irrigation and weed
control program will show dramatic visual results in the second year
after a second or third aeration.
Q: Will aeration make the grass grow faster?
A: Yes. Healthy grass will grow faster and thicker. If you are
unwilling to mow lush green grass, aeration, fertilizing and
watering are counterproductive.
Q: Is aeration a one-time fix that can be
discontinued when the lawn has improved?
A: No. Aeration needs to be an ongoing part of a lawn care plan just
like fertilizing, weed and pest control, irrigation and mowing. In
some cases aeration can be reduced from twice a year to once a year
after a couple of seasons.
Q: How deep and how many cores are required
for effective aeration?
A: Generally, cores every 4"– 6" and from 2"– 3" deep will give best
results. It is commonly accepted that the deeper and the closer
together the better. The cores left in your yard will usually be
about 5/8" diameter.
Q: How long will it take for the cores left
in the lawn to disappear? A: Depending on weather, soil
conditions, watering and mowing frequency, the cores will break down
and disappear in about two weeks. This process will add nutrients to
the lawn. Raking up the cores reduces aeration effectiveness.
Q: Is aeration for the do-it yourselfer?
A: Yes, aeration can be done by any homeowner that has a
do-it-yourself attitude. Most rental stores rent gas powered walk
behind aerators. Many homeowners prefer to have a lawn care
professional handle this chore.
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Q: How much does aeration
cost?
A: Cost varies depending on location. Generally rental cost ranges
from $30 to $60 per four-hour rental. It will usually take 1 hour to
do a 15,000 sq. ft. residential lawn. A lawn care contractor is
likely to charge between $75 and $180 for the same lawn. Rates vary.
Q: Is it important to aerate close to
obstacles such as drive ways, sidewalks and plantings?
A: Yes. Often these are the places where compaction is most
prevalent, where weeds often invade and where irrigation systems
often are less effective.
Q: How wet should the yard be for best
aeration results?
A: Dry ground reduces the depth of cores and aeration effectiveness.
Wet, muddy soil allows deep aeration but at the expense of crusting
the soil in the hole, reducing access to the roots and making cores
left in the yard a muddy mess that does not break down as fast.
Normally, aerating 24 hours after a 1/2" rain or normal watering is
best.
Q: Should aeration be done during times of
drought or high heat?
A: No. During this time, the grass growth is less active and
aeration could increase the invasion of weeds and possibly increase
the rate of water evaporation.
Q: Should newly seeded grass or sod be
aerated?
A: No. Sod should not be aerated for at least 12 months. Newly
seeded lawns usually can be aerated in the second full season of
growth. Multiple pass aeration prior to seeding or sodding is a good
way to prepare the soil.
Q: Can aerator tines damage sprinkler heads
or other items in the lawn?
A: Yes. You must flag all items in the yard to avoid damage caused
by the tines.
Q: When should the lawn be fertilized?
A: Fertilizing immediately after aeration will achieve the best
return on your fertilizer investment, as it will more easily get to
the root structure at this time.
Q: Will the lawn require more fertilization
after aeration?
A: No. The same amount of fertilizer will give quicker and more long
lasting results as it will get to the roots where real health
occurs.
Q: When should pre-emergent for weeds be
applied?
A: Pre-emergent is best applied after aeration to reduce the chance
of weed invasion in the yard while grass is spreading to the cored
holes. Do not apply pre-emergent if you intend to over-seed.
Q: Is reseeding after aeration a good
practice?
A: Yes. If the lawn has areas where the stand of grass is thin,
broadcast seeding 1–2 weeks after aeration will improve
germination, as the seeds will intermix with the deterioration of
plugs and have direct access to non-compacted soil in the holes in
the turf. In this area, multiple passes with the aeration equipment
will dramatically improve soil conditions leading to better
over-seeding results.
Q: Is dethatching (power raking) necessary
in addition to aeration?
A: Only in a case of extreme thatch is this necessary. Power raking
only removes thatch but does not improve compaction. Aeration does
both in one operation.
Q: Should the lawn be watered after
aeration?
A: Yes. Water helps breakdown the cores left in the yard and is
particularly effective on the newly exposed root system.
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